By Carolyn Parker

In my last column, I mentioned that I'd be attending a pruning seminar by Gregg Lowery. He's the owner of Vintage Gardens, an own-root rose nursery with an extraordinary inventory of more than 3,000 roses. Gregg has been thoughtfully growing roses since he was 13.

He spoke about many things I intuitively knew, but hadn't put into words. Not only because most so-called rose experts, past and present, have differing opinions, but also because the basic premises are simple, however revolutionary.

I thought it would be a good idea since we're still in pruning season, and you always have questions about these things, to share what I learned with you.

Gregg pointed out how studies over the past 10 years show that roses do not require pruning in order to be healthy and productive. Pruning roses, therefore, is really a matter of aesthetics. In other words, roses are pruned to maintain the size and shape preferred by the person pruning.

Misconceptions

Most rose pruning instructions recommend opening the center of the bush for good air circulation, removing deadwood, and not letting the stems cross. Know that these instructions have nothing to do with the health of the bush. However, in my opinion, they do make the pruned shrub look good.

1. Pruning cuts should be at a slant, with the highest point a half-inch above a growth bud.

False. Cutting at a slant leaves a bigger wound than simply cutting straight across. On normal-sized stems, cut straight across, a quarter-inch above a growth point. Thick canes, such as those on Pristine, can be cut a little higher.

2. Many books say that removing a rose and planting a new one in its place will result in a weak plant.

False. Plant as you will; and amend the soil as usual.

3. Applying Epsom salts around a rosebush promotes new basal breaks.

False. The practice raises the magnesium levels in the soil and may affect the pH balance. Too much magnesium in the soil will eventually makes roses fail.

4. It's a good idea to apply tar, glue or nail polish to seal pruning cuts.

False. The practice actually leaves cuts open.

New ideas

Leaving more rather than less stem length on a rosebush allows the sugars and nutrients in the canes to better promote new growth and new roots.

If your roses are in cramped spaces, prune them to fit the space, but if a rose has plenty of surrounding room to grow, prune it minimally, not at all, or to suit your visual preference. With these things in mind, rethink your strategies.

"The key to minimizing your negative impact on a rose when pruning," says Gregg, "is to observe the plant. Look at how it grows, to which branches it has distributed its bounty of growth, and which branches have sapped that bounty. That will help you make thoughtful choices on what to remove and what to leave."

After pruning, remove all leaves; even green unblemished leaves contain fungal spores. Rake up fallen rose leaves from the ground. However -- here's a bonus -- if you cover the leaves with mulch or compost, the fungus will actually die as the leaves decompose.

Pruning shears

Bacteria grow on plant sap left on pruning blades, leaving a dark residue. When injected into open pruning wounds, it can cause dieback of stems.

To help eliminate the spread of bacteria, dip clippers and pruning saws in soapy (liquid detergent) water and wipe clean after each bush is pruned. An easy way to do this is to have a lidded container with the soapy solution nearby.

Pesticides

Never spray for insects. Spraying throws off the balance of beneficial insects and deters birds. In a healthy garden, birds eat rose insects, and ladybugs and soldier beetles fly in to eat the aphids.

Water spray also handily removes aphids. Wash off aphids with heavy spray at the end of the day, two or three days in a row. Remaining aphids, climbing back up, will be easy prey for birds.

Spraying for fungus

Just before leaves start sprouting, spray rose canes with copper in the form of a dormant fruit tree spray. For fungal problems during the blooming season, reduce the solution to a quarter of the amount of copper spray recommended for the dormant application. Do not spray copper near a pond -- it's harmful to fish.

Fertilizing

An all-organic regimen is best. The addition of any good compost, along with manure, should provide all the plant's needs. Bone, blood and/or feather meal are good components, but organic mulch, a few inches thick on top of the compost and throughout the garden bed, is the key. There should be no bare earth.

I especially like GreenAll redwood bark as a mulch. It's available at Moraga Garden Center.

Throughout the growing season, there's also the option of fertilizing with fish emulsion, without additives, using a sprayer. I prefer the Gilmour hose-end variety.

I hope some of these ideas will help you figure out a more harmonious rose regimen, for you, the rose and the environment.

In the Bay Area, optimal rose pruning lasts from early December to late February. Just knowing that rosebushes do not live to be pruned might cause less stress, and more thoughtful ideas about how to approach individual shrubs.

Pruning in 2008 #2